How to put new window frames in place In The Netherlands

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types of New Replacement Windows

There are three types to choose from when replacing windows: sash units, insert replacements, or full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits--what We found on the Newton house--give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are secured to the window opening's side jambs. Next, the sash is slipped in between.

To make these work, your existing window frame must be square and level. An insert replacement window is made up of a fully assembled, ready-to-install window. Sometimes called a pocket or insert window, the replacement insert fits into the existing opening. The old side jambs are then fastened to it. The glass area will shrink slightly due to new jambs/liners.

The full-frame replacement windows look similar to inserts but have a complete frame, including the head jamb, sill, and side jambs. These are the only alternative if the original window frame, sill and jambs are damaged. These must be removed from the window opening so that it can be reassembled.

2. Measuring replacements

• Measure the inside width from the old window frame jamb by jamb. Do this in three places: across its top, middle, or botWe. The smallest measurement should be taken.
• Next, measure how high the frame is from the top edge of the sill to below the head jamb. Do this in three places: the left jamb at the middle, the middle and the right. Take the smallest measurement again.
• Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. These dimensions should match. Don't worry if the frame is not square by 1/4 inch. The replacement can be shimmed to make it fit. The frame may need adjustments if it is larger. A full-frame replacement is necessary if the frame is so outof whack that it would not look right with a square replacement.
• To determine the slope of the sill, you can use an angle measuring tool.

3. Sash!

• The first step is to remove the old sash from the window frame. To remove the lower section of the sash in most cases, you will need the wood stops inside the window frame to be removed. If you are going to reinstall them, be careful. They are easily broken.
• Next, remove all the parting beads. You won't find any beads on windows that were fitted with sash replacement kits. Simply press down on jamb liners to pull the top edge of the sash up.
• Next, turn one side of your sash upwards to remove it from the jambliners.

4. Jamb Liners to be Removed

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them free. Removing any wooden supports from original windows is a good idea.
• Be sure to keep the exterior and inner casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

• All loose and blistered coatings should be removed and any cracks must be filled with an exterior-grade wood epoxy such as Minwax and Elmer's.
• After that, sand all the areas and prime and paint them.

6. The Old Sash Weights Must Be Removed

• If you have the original sashweights, remove them from the pockets and wrap the window frame in insulation.
• Take out the weights by unscrewing the access panels at each jamb.

7. Prep for Insulation

• Use only low-pressure foam that is minimally expanding for windows and doors. Anything else will bow the frames, preventing the sash's from functioning.
• First, remove all fiberglass in the weight pocket.
• Next, drill three holes measuring 3/8 inches in diameter at each end. One in the center. Then, run the screws down through the sill to reach the head jamb.

8. Begin To Spray the Foam

• To get the foam to expand, shoot it into the holes. (We are using a commercial system, but you can do the same job with foam from a can, like Dow's Great Stuff.)
• Spray foam in the sash-weight pockets at the sides jambs. Allow excess foam to set for at least 6 hours. Once it has hardened, cut or break it flush before you replace the sashweight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Open

• In preparation for installing the window, apply an elasWeeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the top and sides of the frame. Also apply two continuous beads of caulk along the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

• Start by working from the inside of the room. Place the insert replacement's botWe on the sill and then tip it into the opening. Make sure the window is tightly closed against any blind stops or exterior casings.

11. Keep it loose

• Hold the window in place with one 2-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should not extend beyond the window's functionality.
• Close the sash.

12. Shim as a Necessary

• Adjust the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Measure diagonally across the window from corner to corner. The measurements should be identical. Once the window is squared, screw it into place using the holes that have been predrilled.
• You can avoid bowing the frame by slipping a shim behind each screw. Then, screw through the shhim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

13. Time To Caulk, Prime and Paint

• From the outside, measure between the casing of the window frame. Fill gaps less than 1/4 inch wide with elasWeeric caulk. Any gaps larger than 1/4 inch must be filled with foam-rubber backing rod.
• Place minimally expanding foam around the windows on the inside.
• Next, reinstall the stops and add new ones.
• Paint or prime the interior of the frame and sash.