How to install new window frames in The Netherlands
1. Window Replacement Parts
Types and styles of Replacement Windows
Full-frame windows are meant for new construction. Replacement windows fit in existing window openings, unlike full frame windows. There are many standard sizes available, including those that are as narrow as 11 1/2 inches to as wide at 68 inches. They also come in wood, vinyl and fiberglass.
There are three basic types: insert replacements or sash kit replacements. We discovered the sash-replacement-kits on the Newton home. These kits give an old window frame new, movable parts including jamb liners. The liners attach to the side jambs at the window opening. After that, the sash is slipped between them.
These insert replacement windows cannot be used if the existing frame is not square or level. An insert replacement window is a fully assembled and ready-to install window. An insert replacement window is sometimes known as a pocket window. It slips into an existing opening and is then attached to the old sidejambs. The glass area will shrink slightly due to new jambs/liners.
Inserts are not as good as full-frame replacement windows. They have a complete framework that includes the sill, head jamb, and side jambs. These are the only alternative if the original window frame, sill and jambs are damaged. These must be removed from the window opening so that it can be reassembled.
2. Calculating Replacements
The most crucial step in window-replacement is the one that happens before installation day. To ensure you get the right size replacement unit, measure the existing frame. Here's how to do it.
- Start by measuring the inside width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, middle, and botWe. The smallest measurement should be taken.
- Next, measure how high the frame is from the top edge of the sill to below the head jamb. Do this in three places: the left jamb at the middle, the middle and the right. Take the smallest measurement again.
- Measure the diagonals corner to corner to determine the squareness of your frame. The dimensions should be equal. Don't worry if the frame is not square by 1/4 inch. The replacement can be shimmed to make it fit. Anything more may require adjustments to the frame. A full-frame replacement is necessary if the frame is so outof whack that it would not look right with a square replacement.
- The angle-measuring tool can be used to determine sill slope.
3. Take Out the Sash
- Remove the old sash from your window frame. You will most likely need to remove or unscrew the wooden interior stops in order to remove the lower portion of the sash. You should be very careful when reinstalling the stops. They break easily.
- Next, remove the parting beads from the upper sash. You won't find any beads on windows that were fitted with sash replacement kits. Just press down on the jamb liner and pull the top of your sash forward.
- Next, turn one side of your sash upwards to remove it from the jambliners.
4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners
- You can remove any vinyl or aluminum jambliners that were attached to the window frame with a flat tool. Removing any wooden supports from original windows is a good idea.
- Leave the interior and exterior casings intact.
5. Prep the Frame
- You can scrape away any loose or blistered paint, and then patch any cracks or holes with exterior-grade wood glue such as those from Minwax or Elmer's.
- After sanding the jambs, prime and paint the surfaces.
6. Remove the Old Sash Weights
- If you have the original sashweights, remove them from the pockets and wrap the window frame in insulation.
- Take out the weights by unscrewing the access panels at each jamb.
7. Prep for Insulation
We like polyurethane insulation, as it's more effective in blocking air than fiberglass insulation.
- Only use low-pressure and minimally expanding foam designed for windows, doors and other applications. Anything else will cause bowing and stop the sash working.
- First, remove all fiberglass in the weight pocket.
- Then, you bore 3/8" holes in each end.
8. Spray the Foam Now
- You can push the expanding foam into holes until it starts to ooze. (We uses a commercial machine, but you can also use foam from a container like Dow's Great Stuff.
- Spray foam on the pockets of sash weight in the side jambs. Allow the foam to set for at minimum 6 hours. After that, you can break it off or cut it flush to replace the sash-weight pockets panels.
9. Caulk The Opening
- Preparing to install the window, apply an oil-based caulk on the exterior casings. Two continuous beads of caulk should be applied to the windowsill.
10. Install the Window
- Working from inside the room, set the botWe of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip it up into the opening. Keep the window closed against the blind stops and exterior casings.
11. Secure It Loosely
- The window can be held in place by a 2-inch screw that is loosely driven through the upper side jamb into the framing. The screw should reach just enough to allow the glass to operate.
- Close the sash.
12. Shim is a must
- You can adjust the unit by placing shims behind the side jambs and under the sill until it is centered. It will then open, close, and lock smoothly.
- Measure diagonally across the window from corner to corner. The measurements should be identical. Once you have squared the window, screw it in the predrilled holes.
- To prevent bowing of the frame, place a shim under each screw and screw through it.
- You can trim the shims with a utility blade.
13. Begin Caulk and Prime and Painting
- From the outside, measure between the casing of the window frame. Fill gaps smaller than 1/4 inch with elasWeeric calk. Foam-rubber backer rod must be used to fill any larger gaps.
- On the inside, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding foam.
- Next, reinstall the stops and add new ones.
- Next, prime and paint the interior of your window frame and sash.