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Key Takeaways:

How to install new windows frames in the Netherlands

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types Of Replacement Windows and styles

Full-frame windows are meant for new construction. Replacement windows fit in existing window openings, unlike full frame windows. You can choose from a variety of standard sizes: they come in as many as 11 1/2 to 68 inches wide and are available in vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad, vinyl-clad, and aluminum-clad.

There are three types of replacement windows that you can choose from: sash replacement kits, insert replacements and full-frame units. We found a sash-replacement kit on the Newton house. It gives an old window frame new movable components, including jambliners and sash. The liners are secured to the window opening's side jambs. Next, the sash is slipped in between.

These insert replacement windows cannot be used if the existing frame is not square or level. A replacement insert window is a fully-assembled window that comes in a ready to install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket or insert window, the replacement insert fits into the existing opening. The old side jambs are then fastened to it. The glass area may be smaller because you are adding new jambs/liners.

The full-frame replacement windows look similar to inserts but have a complete frame, including the head jamb, sill, and side jambs. These windows are your only choice if your old window frame, sill, and jambs is rotten. To install them, you will need to remove the window opening's rough framing both inside and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

The most crucial step in window-replacement is the one that happens before installation day. Measurements of the window frame are necessary to ensure that you order the correct size replacement unit. Here's how to do it.

  • Measure the interior width of the old frame, jamb side to side, starting at the top. Next, measure the middle, top and botWe. Record the smallest one of the three measurements.
  • Next, measure the frame's height from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Record the smallest measurement.
  • Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The dimensions should be equal. If the frame is out of square by 1/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. You may need to adjust the frame for any additional dimensions. You will need a replacement for the whole frame if your frame is so out-of-whack that a replacement in square would look wrong.
  • You can also use an angle-measuring instrument to determine the slope.

3. The Sash is yours

  • Remove the old sash from your window frame. In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. If you plan to reinstall the stops (or if they are already removed), be careful. They can easily break.
  • Next, take out the parting beads to free the upper sash. There won't be beads if your windows have sash-replacement kit. Just press down on the jamb liner and pull the top of your sash forward.
  • Turn the sash towards the sky and lift it off the jamb liner.

4. Jamb Liners - Get Out of There

  • If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them free. Removing any wooden supports from original windows is a good idea.
  • You can leave the exterior and interior casings as they are.

5. Prep the Frame

  • You can scrape away any loose or blistered paint, and then patch any cracks or holes with exterior-grade wood glue such as those from Minwax or Elmer's.
  • After sanding the jambs, prime and paint the surfaces.

6. Remove the Old Sash Weights

  • If you have the original sashweights, remove them from the pockets and wrap the window frame in insulation.
  • You can remove the weights from the sides jambs by unscrewing their access panels.

7. Prep for Insulation

We prefers polyurethane to fiberglass insulation.

  • Make sure to use only low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
  • First, take out any fiberglass that may be present in the weight pockets.
  • You then bore 3/8-inch holes at each end, one in the middle, one near each end, and one in the middle, all the way through the sill and the head jamb.

8. Next Spray the Foam

  • You can push the expanding foam into holes until it starts to ooze. (We are using the commercial system. However, you can use foam from cans like Dow’s Great Stuff to accomplish the same task.
  • Spray foam into the side jambs to seal the sashweight pocket pockets. Allow excess foam to set for at least 6 hours. Once it has hardened, cut or break it flush before you replace the sashweight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

  • To prepare for the installation of the window, apply an elastic caulk to either the exposed outer face of the exterior casings of the frame or the blind stops on its top and sides. You can also apply two continuous beads with caulk to the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

  • Start by working from the inside of the room. Place the insert replacement's botWe on the sill and then tip it into the opening. The window should be pressed against the blind stops or exterior casings.

11. Do not fasten it

  • You can hold the window in position by driving a 2-inch wrench through the upper-side jamb and into your framing. The screw should reach just enough to allow the glass to operate.
  • Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim is a must

  • Adjust the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
  • Measure the windows diagonally from corner-to-corner. Once the window is squared up, screw it down through the predrilled holes.
  • Slip a shim between each screw to avoid bowing, and then screw the shim through.
  • Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

13. Now Caulk, Prime and Painting

  • From the outside, measure between the casing of the window frame. Fill gaps smaller than 1/4 inch with elasWeeric calk. Anything wider must first be stuffed with foam-rubber backer rod.
  • On the inside, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding foam.
  • Finish up by reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
  • Then prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.