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Key Takeaways:

How to install new window frames in The Netherlands

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types of Replacement Windows

Replacement windows can be fitted into existing windows unlike full-frame windows which are intended for new construction. You can choose from a variety of standard sizes: they come in as many as 11 1/2 to 68 inches wide and are available in vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad, vinyl-clad, and aluminum-clad.

There are three main types of replacement windows available: insert replacements, sash kits and full-frame units. The Newton house's Sash-replacement Kits were what We discovered. They give an old window frame new parts, including jamb liner and sash. The liners attach to the side jambs at the window opening. After that, the sash is slipped between them.

These windows must be installed in a square and level frame. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket-window, insert replacements slip into existing openings and are attached to the side jambs. Because you're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before.

These windows can be used as replacements for inserts. However, they come with a complete frame which includes sill, side jambs and head jambs. These are the only option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. These must be removed from the window opening so that it can be reassembled.

2. Measuring replacements

Before you can install your window replacement unit, the most important step is to measure the existing window frame. Measurements of the window frame are necessary to ensure that you order the correct size replacement unit. Here's how to do it.

  • Start by measuring the inside width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, middle, and botWe. Write down the smallest of the three measurements.
  • Next, measure how high the frame is from the top edge of the sill to below the head jamb. Do this in three places: the left jamb at the middle, the middle and the right. Take the smallest measurement again.
  • You can check the squareness by measuring diagonals from corner-to-corner. Both dimensions should be equal. You can shim the replacement to fit if the frame is less than 1/4 inch square. The frame may need adjustments if it is larger. You'll need to replace the entire frame, if it is so out of place that a square replacement would be unacceptable.
  • Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.

3. Take Out the Sash

  • The first step is to take the old frame and sash off the window. To remove the lower section of the sash in most cases, you will need the wood stops inside the window frame to be removed. If you plan to reinstall the stops (or if they are already removed), be careful. They can easily break.
  • Next, take out the parting beads to free the upper sash. You won't find any beads on windows that were fitted with sash replacement kits. Simply press down on jamb liners to pull the top edge of the sash up.
  • Then pivot one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners.

4. Jamb Liners - Get Out of There

  • To remove vinyl or aluminum jambliners from the window frame, you can use a flatbar to pry them out. Removing any wooden supports from original windows is a good idea.
  • The exterior and interior casings should be left intact.

5. Prep the Frame

  • Take off any paint that has become brittle and scraped. Then, use exterior-grade wood putty such as Minwax to fill in any cracks.
  • After sanding the jambs, prime and paint the surfaces.

6. Get rid of the old Sash Weights

  • If your original sash weights remain in place, you can take this opportunity to remove them and insulate behind your window frame.
  • Take out the weights by unscrewing the access panels at each jamb.

7. Prep For Insulation

We like polyurethane insulation, as it's more effective in blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

  • Use only low-pressure foam that is minimally expanding for windows and doors. Anything else will bow the frames, preventing the sash's from functioning.
  • First, take out any fiberglass material that is still in the weight-bearing pockets.
  • Next, bore three holes of 3/8 inch diameter, one at each end and one at the center, through the sill, and up through to the head jamb.

8. Spray in the Foam

  • Once the foam is ooze-out, you can shoot it into the holes. (We uses a commercial machine, but you can also use foam from a container like Dow's Great Stuff.
  • Spray foam on the pockets of sash weight in the side jambs. Allow the foam to set for at minimum 6 hours. After that, you can break it off or cut it flush to replace the sash-weight pockets panels.

9. Caulk the opening

  • Before installing the window, you should apply an elasWeeric adhesive caulk to the outer casings or blind stops at the top and sides. Apply two continuous beads to the windowsill with caulk.

10. Install the Window

  • Start by working from the inside of the room. Place the insert replacement's botWe on the sill and then tip it into the opening. Push the window against the blind stops or exterior casings.

11. Fasten It Loosely

  • Hold the window in place with one 2-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in just far enough to allow the window to operate.
  • Close the sash and lock it.

12. Shim as a Necessary

  • Place shims below the sills and behind the sidejambs to adjust the unit until it is properly centered. The unit will then open, close and lock smoothly.
  • Measure the windows diagonally from corner-to-corner. After the window has been squared, screw it in position through the holes.
  • You can avoid bowing the frame by slipping a shim behind each screw. Then, screw through the shhim.
  • With a utility knives, trim the shims to the desired length.

13. Caulk and Prime and paint

  • Measure the gap between the casing and the frame from the outside. Fill in any gaps greater than 1/4" with elasWeeric silicone caulk. Foam-rubber backer rod must be used to fill any larger gaps.
  • On the inside, fill all gaps around the window using minimally expanding foam.
  • You can finish by reinstalling or adding new stops.
  • After priming and painting, stain or paint the interior of frame and window sash, you can then seal it.