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How to Install New Window Frames In The Netherlands
1. Window Replacement Parts
Types and styles of Replacement Windows
Instead of full-frame windows that are built for new construction, replacement windows can fit into existing window openings. You can choose from a variety of standard sizes: they come in as many as 11 1/2 to 68 inches wide and are available in vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad, vinyl-clad, and aluminum-clad.There are three basic types: insert replacements or sash kit replacements. The Newton house's Sash-replacement Kits were what We discovered. They give an old window frame new parts, including jamb liner and sash. The liners are attached to the side jambs, and then the sash can be slipped in between.
To make these work, your existing window frame must be square and level. Insert replacement windows consist of a fully assembled window with a secondary frame. An insert replacement window is sometimes known as a pocket window. It slips into an existing opening and is then attached to the old sidejambs. The glass area will shrink slightly because of the addition of liners and jambs.
These windows can be used as replacements for inserts. However, they come with a complete frame which includes sill, side jambs and head jambs. These are the only option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install them, you will need to remove the window opening's rough framing both inside and out.
2. Measurement of Replacements
The first step in any window-replacement project is long before the actual installation day. This is when you measure the existing window frame in order to choose the right replacement unit. This is how it works.- Measure the interior width of the old frame, jamb side to side, starting at the top. Next, measure the middle, top and botWe. The smallest measurement should be taken.
- Next, measure how high the frame is from the top edge of the sill to below the head jamb. Do this in three places: the left jamb at the middle, the middle and the right. Keep the smallest measurement.
- Take the diagonals measuring from corner, corner, and back to check the frame's squareness. The dimensions of the frame should be identical. Don't worry if the frame is not square by 1/4 inch. The replacement can be shimmed to make it fit. The frame may need adjustments if it is larger. You may need to replace the entire frame if the frame is out of alignment.
- To determine the slope of the sill, you can use an angle measuring tool.
3. Sash!
- The first thing you need to do is remove the old window frame sash. In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. If you are going to reinstall them, be careful. They are easily broken.
- Next, remove the parting beads from the upper sash. You won't find any beads on windows that were fitted with sash replacement kits. Simply press on the jambliners and pull up the top of each sash.
- Now pivot one end of the sash toward the top to release it from the jamb lines.
4. Jamb Liners - Get Out of There
- If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them free. Removing any wooden supports from original windows is a good idea.
- Be sure to keep the exterior and inner casings intact.
5. Prep the Frame
- All loose and blistered coatings should be removed and any cracks must be filled with an exterior-grade wood epoxy such as Minwax and Elmer's.
- Finally, sand and prime the surfaces.
6. Eliminate the old sash weights
- If the original sashweights are still in their place, use this opportunity to take them out of their pockets and insulate the frame behind the window.
- Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.
7. Insulation Prep
We prefers polyurethane to fiberglass insulation.- Use only low-pressure foam that is minimally expanding for windows and doors. Anything else will bow the frames, preventing the sash's from functioning.
- First, take out any fiberglass that may be present in the weight pockets.
- Then, you bore 3/8" holes in each end.
8. Next Spray the Foam
- You can push the expanding foam into holes until it starts to ooze. (We are using a commercial system, but you can do the same job with foam from a can, like Dow's Great Stuff.)
- Spray foam on the pockets of sash weight in the side jambs. Allow the excess to harden for at least 6 hours, then break or cut it off flush before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.
9. Caulk the Open
- To prepare for the installation of the window, apply an elastic caulk to either the exposed outer face of the exterior casings of the frame or the blind stops on its top and sides. Two continuous beads of caulk should be applied to the windowsill.
10. Install the Window
- Start by working from the inside of the room. Place the insert replacement's botWe on the sill and then tip it into the opening. Make sure the window is tightly closed against any blind stops or exterior casings.
11. Do not fasten it
- Secure the window by driving one 2-inch screw through the upper jamb and into framing. The screw should be in just far enough to allow the window to operate.
- Close and lock the sash.
12. Shim is essential
- Place shims below the sills and behind the sidejambs to adjust the unit until it is properly centered. The unit will then open, close and lock smoothly.
- Measure the window diagonally, corner to corner. Once you have squared the window, screw it in the predrilled holes.
- You can avoid bowing the frame by slipping a shim behind each screw. Then, screw through the shhim.
- Use a utility knife to trim the shims.
13. Caulk and Prime and paint
- Measure the gaps between the window frames and the casing. Fill gaps less than 1/4 inch wide with elasWeeric caulk. Anything wider must first be stuffed with foam-rubber backer rod.
- Fill any cracks around the window from the inside with foam that is minimally expandable.
- Finalize the job by reinstalling stops or adding new ones.
- Prime and paint or stain the interiors of the frame and window sash.
